AMMAN.

Amman is a city with soul - old and new piled on top of each other in the best possible way. Ancient Roman columns rise behind buzzing cafés, spice shops spill their secrets onto the streets, and the smell of fresh bread and roasting meat drifts from every corner.

It’s not trying to impress you, and that’s the charm. Honest, welcoming, alive with energy and warmth. A place where strangers pour you tea, plates keep arriving, and the city itself feels like a quiet secret you’re lucky to stumble into.

HÅNLI guide to Amman

Hashem is the kind of place that proves you don’t need white tablecloths or fancy menus to serve a perfect meal. Plastic chairs, fluorescent lights, no fuss - just hot, crispy falafel, silky hummus, and bowls of fresh, sharp-fresh salads set down on your table by waiters who’ve been doing this forever.

It’s loud, fast, and chaotic, but it feels right. Locals, tourists, taxi drivers, businessmen - everyone comes here because this is what real food tastes like. No pretence, no nonsense. Just the simple joy of bread torn by hand, dips shared, and tea poured endlessly.

A meal at Hashem isn’t just lunch, it’s Amman on a plate.

Why we liked it: Off the charts in terms of value for money. An absolute institution for a good reason. Pro tip - head straight upstairs to try and snap up a table.

EAT.

Hashem Food

The Bar in the Back feels like a secret someone finally let you in on tucked away from the chaos of downtown Amman. It’s effortlessly cool without trying too hard.

The drinks? Thoughtful, sharp, exactly what you want. A perfect Negroni, arak cocktails that taste like the region itself, crisp gin and tonics cut with fresh herbs and dark chocolate espresso martinis. No gimmicks, just good booze, mixed by people who know what they’re doing.

It’s the kind of place where the night stretches longer than you planned, the conversation runs deeper, and the next round always feels like a good idea.

Why we liked it: An oasis in the middle of the city. The outdoor seating area was so peaceful, and such a lovely space to sip a cocktail and enjoy the shade.

DRINK.

Cocktail in Amman

DISCOVER.

The Roman ruins in Amman sit quietly in the middle of the city’s noise, watching the chaos roll by. The Citadel perched high above the city, broken columns, worn stones, pieces of history scattered under the open sky, and below, the ancient amphitheatre still holds its shape, grand and unapologetic.

There’s something strange and beautiful about standing there, listening to car horns and the distant call to prayer while your hand rests on stone laid two thousand years ago. Time folds in on itself here. The past isn’t gone, it’s just part of the city now. With only a short distance between these two sites, they’re well worth spending some time wandering around, and wondering at their magnificence.

Why we liked it: The views speak for themselves. An opportunity to immerse yourself in the history of a city like this is unmissable.

Amman Ampitheatre

WHAT TO PACK.